Sandrone Barolo Aleste (1.5 Liter Magnum) 2014
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Winemaker Notes
Sandrone Aleste 2014 is a wine of an elegant personality, ageable and able to transform and transmit over the years of maturation the nobility of its character, origin and style. In the glass, the color is beautiful and brilliant garnet red. The fragrance, rich and complex, begins with floral notes – iris, aromatic herbs and dried hay- then raspberry and wild strawberry, and finally ethereal spice notes of cinnamon and green peppercorns as well as tobacco. The flavor is rich and decisive, enveloping and warm, with notes that recall the aromas of spices and jams, herbs and tobacco. It is a dense, structured and long-lived wine, yet one of elegant character: the acidity and tannin give balance to the wine and the finish is velvety.
Professional Ratings
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Wine & Spirits
Aleste, formerly labeled as Cannubi Boschis and still sourced from that cru, is surprisingly expressive for a young Barolo. The 2014 vintage was notoriously rainy through the summer, but careful vineyard management and a run of warm, sunny days in September allowed the grapes to ripen fully, giving a medium-bodied wine with deep flavors of cherry and plum laced with notes of menthol, rosemary and warm spice. The silky tannins weave through the wine like fine mesh, allowing the fruit full expression. There’s lots of complexity here, but it’s also a wine that you can enjoy without having to figure out why you should like it.
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Wine Spectator
The cherry and strawberry aromas are tinged by hay and tobacco notes. On the palate, the core of fruit is joined by a chorus of herb, tobacco and underbrush flavors. Aggressively tannic now, but well-proportioned and long.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
This is the second year Aleste is produced instead of Cannubi Boschis, however the grapes are exactly the same. The 2014 Barolo Aleste is named after Luciano Sandrone's grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. The 2014 is still wound up and will require extra time to find its footing. The Sandrone family lost 25% of their fruit production in this challenging harvest. The wine offers fragrant notes of wild cherry and cassis with smoke, crushed stone and candied orange peel. The tannins are firm and textured. It is the palate (more than the nose) that requires more time to soften.
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James Suckling
A firm and silky red with plum and berry character. Hints of spices and dark chocolate, too. Medium to full body. Powerful and structured. Needs three or four years to soften.
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Luciano Sandrone is one of the most iconic producers in Barolo, and his is both a well known and extraordinary story. He started to learn viticulture at the age of 14 or 15, and after years of work as a cellarman he depleted his life savings and purchased his first vineyard on the Cannubi hill in 1977, though he could only manage his land on the weekends while he continued to work. He made his first vintage in 1978, in the garage of his parents, and then spent years refining his ideas about how to make a wine of distinction and utmost quality that respected the traditions of Barolo while incorporating new ideas and understanding about viticulture and vinification. He made every vintage until 1999 at home, until the winery he constructed in 1998 was ready for use.
Sandrone's wines are sometimes described as straddling the modern and traditional styles in the region: elegant, attractive and easy to appreciate right from their first years in bottle, but with no less power and structure than traditional Barolos. Along with the extremely low yields in the vineyard and an obsessive attention to training, pruning and harvesting, Sandrone has a very rational approach in the cellar. This approach, however, is also unique and outside of simple classification: Sandrone subjects his wines to medium-length maceration period, shorter than traditional, but makes limited use of new oak in the maturation process, which takes place in 500 liter tonneaux, all signs of a more traditional approach in the cellar. The entire range of wines, all limited in production, are jewels of impeccably balanced concentration and precision, and the ability to age for long periods of time.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
The center of the production of the world’s most exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo, the Barolo wine region includes five core townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. The landscape of Barolo, characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Its wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, have a deceptively light garnet color but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. In a well-made Barolo wine, one can expect to find complexity and good evolution with notes of, for example, strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.
There are two predominant soil types here, which distinguish Barolo from the lesser surrounding areas. Compact and fertile Tortonian sandy marls define the vineyards farthest west and at higher elevations. Typically the Barolo wines coming from this side, from La Morra and Barolo, can be approachable relatively early on in their evolution and represent the “feminine” side of Barolo, often closer in style to Barbaresco with elegant perfume and fresh fruit.
On the eastern side of the Barolo wine region, Helvetian soils of compressed sandstone and chalks are less fertile, producing wines with intense body, power and structured tannins. This more “masculine” style comes from Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The township of Castiglione Falletto covers a spine with both soil types.
The best Barolo wines need 10-15 years before they are ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.