Santo Santorini Assyrtiko Santorini Grande Reserve 2014
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Santorini Grande Reserve is an Assyrtiko aged for 12 months in a mixture of new (40%) and used (60% second- to third-use) French barriques. It comes in at 14.8% alcohol. Sourced from the co-op's oldest vines (up to 150 years old, with an average age of 100 years) in Akrotiri, this was picked, they say, "slightly overripe." Indeed, this seems more like a Nykteri, that category on the island that often goes a little over the top. (Santo Wine's own Nykteri is usually more on the sedate-and-balanced side by comparison.) This lets it all hang out, so don't expect that typical vision of purity and freshness for which Santorini has become famous. Rich and ripe, also showing a slight caramel overlay, this is most notable for its pure power. The wood shows a bit, too, making this stern and brooding. There is some tannic pop on the finish as well. This might be a style in which you have no interest at all. It might be in a style that you expect to see more from other regions. It's fair to say, though, that on its own terms it is rather brilliant, delicious and impressively structured. This isn't, if I haven't been clear, a simple sipping wine. It requires a food pairing and desperately needs one. I would expect this to age well, but check in every now and then. It may do better than anticipated. It certainly looks like the best wine I have ever seen from Santo Wines.
A crisp white variety full of zippy acidity, Assyrtiko comes from the volcanic Greek island of Santorini but is grown increasingly wide throughout the country today. Assyrtiko’s popularity isn’t hard to explain: it retains its acid and mineral profile in a hot climate, stands alone or blends well with other grapes and can also withstand some age. Somm Secret—On the fairly barren, windswept Mediterranean island of Santorini, Assyrtiko vines must be cultivated in low baskets, pinned to the ground. The shape serves to preserve moisture and protect the growing grapes in its interior.