Serio & Battista Borgogno Nebbiolo d'Alba 2019
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Here's a lean and fresh expression of Piedmont's leading red grape to pair with a classic oven-roasted lasagna with stringy mozzarella. The 2019 Nebbiolo d'Alba reveals bright aromas of wild cherry, cassis, blue flower and soft earth. The wine is absolutely smooth in terms of mouthfeel, and that silky approach is what makes it so easy to match with your favorite home-cooked meals.
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The roots date back even further when, in the mid-nineteenth century, Cavalier Francesco Borgogno began producing his own wine, selling it in his wife’s small tavern in Barolo. With foresight, Serio & Battista Borgogno managed to turn their dream into reality: building their house and their winery on top of Cannubi, buying more vineyards all around for a total of 3 ha, in the heart of Cannubi. They were able to grasp the great potential of a place that is now worldwide known and that is considered one of the best cru in Barolo. .
While the history is important, it is the terroir, and resulting style that separates Cannubi from Barolo’s other vineyards. The crus of Serralunga and Monforte are known for their power, and to a certain extent, the Barolo DOCG as a whole enjoys the same reputation. The majesty of Cannubi lies in its lifted, floral aromatics with a palate characterized by elegance and approachable structure. As with all great wine, its requisite age-worthiness is undeniable, but unlike many Baroli, Cannubi brings uncommon pleasure in youth.
Francesco Borgogno established Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno in 1897. At the time his was the only winery on the Cannubi hill. He served as the mayor of the town of Barolo for more than 30 years, leading an informal association of growers and helping to solve problems in the vineyards and beyond. The estate has been in the family since its beginning, with forth-generation sisters Anna and Paola Borgogno now handing the reins over to daughters Emanuela and Federica.
Responsible for some of the most elegant and age-worthy wines in the world, Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), is the star variety of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Outside of Italy, growers are still very much in the experimentation stage but some success has been achieved in parts of California. Somm Secret—If you’re new to Nebbiolo, start with a charming, wallet-friendly, early-drinking Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
An historic village situated right in between the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Alba is also the name for the larger wine region surrounding the village.
In a sense, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. In fact, Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is a great place to start if you want to begin to understand the grape. Likewise, the even broader category of Langhe Nebbiolo offers approachable and value-driven options as well.
Barbera, planted alongside Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.
Dolcetto is ubiquitous here and, known as Dolcetto d'Alba, can be found casually served alongside antipasti on the tables of Alba’s cafes and wine bars.
Not surprisingly, given its location, Alba is recognized as one of Italy’s premiere culinary destinations and is the home of the fall truffle fair, which attracts visitors from worldwide every year.