Terlan Porphyr Riserva Lagrein 2016
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James
Suckling -
Robert
Parker
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Winemaker Notes
Perfect with pink roasted saddle of venison in a walnut crust with root vegetables and red cabbage, rib of beef braised in Lagrein with mixed polenta and baby vegetables, or braised calf’s cheek with Lagrein sauce on celeriac foam.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
You rarely, if ever, see this level of complexity in a lagrein, which goes headlong through bracken, tea leaves, vanilla, blackberries, undergrowth, heather and violet extract. Full-bodied and very structured indeed, the chewy tannins envelop layers of compact yet exuberant dark fruit. Elements of undergrowth and spice linger on the long finish. Stunning. Delicious now, but better in 2022.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2016 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Porphyr pours from the bottle with deep and dark intensity. Raw cherry and blackberry notes pop out from the big, ripe and dark fruit. There's good dimension to this Lagrein, with lots of inky black fruit and nuance. It's a bit raw. I'm being generous with my drinking window here, and it's probably better to just enjoy this now with a pot roast. The wine ages in barrique for 18 months, with one-third new oak.
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Founded in 1893, the Cantina Terlano winery is now one of the leading wine growers’ cooperatives in South Tyrol, with a current membership of 143 growers working a total area of 190 hectares. That is the equivalent of some 1.5 million bottles of wine a year. We and our members have long had a strong focus on quality. That has attracted praise and recognition on the Italian and international wine markets, and in spite of its relatively small size, Cantina Terlano is now well established in the world of wine.
Our modern winery produces 30 percent red and 70 percent white wines, all of them of DOC quality (Controlled Designation of Origin). Following the last upgrade and refurbishment in 2009, our cellars now include a total of 18,000 cubic meters of storage space, which ensures that the wines can develop undisturbed. On the outside, the new tract has a natural facing of red porphyry, the stone that gives the wines in the area their typical character. The roof is planted with vines so that it blends in completely with the surrounding countryside.
Our wines are marketed in two distinct quality lines: Selections and traditional line. An annual rarity is also produced, which only comes on the market after it has spent at least ten years maturing in our cellars. That makes it a fine symbol of our focus on longevity.
Incredibly concentrated and uncommonly sturdy in character, Lagrein has roots in the Alto Adige area and has recently experienced a great renaissance in popularity. While the climate is cool there, the sun is intense on the region’s steep slopes. Warm hillsides near the bustling city of Bolzano create the perfect environment for the production of intense reds from Lagrein. Somm Secret— Lagrein Kretzer (German) or Rosato (Italian) is the spicy rosé version, which is delicious with smoked fish and white meat.
A mountainous northern Italian region heavily influenced by German culture, Trentino-Alto Adige is actually made up of two separate but similar regions: Alto Adige and Trentino.
Trentino, the southern half, is primarily Italian-speaking and largely responsible for the production of non-native, international grapes. There is a significant quantity of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Merlot produced. But Trentino's native and most unique red variety, Teroldego, while still rare, is gaining popularity. It produces a deeply colored red wine rich in wild blackberry, herb, coffee and cocoa.
The rugged terrain of German-speaking Alto Adige (also referred to as Südtirol) focuses on small-scale viticulture, with great value placed on local varieties—though international varieties have been widely planted since the 1800s. Sheltered by the Alps from harsh northerly winds, many of the best vineyards are at extreme altitude but on steep slopes to increase sunlight exposure.
Dominant red varieties include the bold, herbaceous Lagrein and delicate, strawberry-kissed, Schiava, in addition to some Pinot Nero.
The primary white grapes are Pinot grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot blanc, as well as smaller plantings of Sauvignon blanc, Müller Thurgau. These tend to be bright and refreshing with crisp acidity and just the right amount of texture. Some of the highest quality Pinot grigio in Italy is made here.