Von Oetinger Alte Reben Riesling Trocken 2014
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Like the "Mineral" this old vine bottling is also sourced from the edge of Hohenrain but with a broader expression and more volume on the palate than “Mineral”. With time in glass it opens up revealing layers of crisp fruit and dusty minerality.
Achim von Oetinger’s family has been growing grapes around Erbach in the Rheingau since 1828. The estate was divided between brothers Robert and Eberhard in 1958, but was subsequently reunited. Presently, Achim, Robert’s grandson, is in charge of the vineyard operations and winemaking. Quality has been on the rise consistently with Achim and his wife Julia steering the ship as the winery is one of the rising stars in the Rheingau, and a member of the prestigious VDP which holds their members to strict quality standards. The estate holds 11 hectares of vines including the world famous Erbacher Marcobrunn site.
The domaine is focused on Riesling, with the noble variety comprising 90% of the vineyards and production. The remaining varieties include Spatburgunder, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. The vineyards are all picked by hand and all styles of wine are produced from sparkling, dry and sweet. Respecting the land by using natural fertilization and allowing suitable plants to grow between the vines are practiced at von Oetinger.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Practically one long and bucolic hillside along the northern bank of the Rhein River, the Rheingau stretches the entirety of the river’s east to west spread from Hocheim to Rüdesheim.
Variations in elevation, soil types, and proximity to the Rhine cause great diversity in Rheingau Riesling. Some of the better Rieslings in warmer years come from the cooler and breezier sites at higher elevations. In cooler years, sites closer to the river may perform better.
In the village of Rüdesheim, slopes are steep and soils are stony slate with quartzite; Rieslings are rich and spicy, intense in stone fruit and show depth and character with age. World class Rieslings come from farther east on the river through Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Winkel, Oestrich and past Erbach as well, where soils of loess, sand, and marl alternate. Long-living, floral-driven and mineral-rich Rieslings come from the best of these sites.
Rheingau growers became early activists in promoting the dry style of Riesling, low yields and the classification of top vineyards, or Erstes Gewächs (first growths). Proximity to the metropolitan markets of Mainz, Wiesbaden, and Frankfurt keeps Rheingau in high reputation. While dry wines are the style here, Rheingau isn’t short of some amazing Auslesen, Beerenauslesen, and Trockenbeerenauslesen.
Rheingau doesn’t mess with many other grapes—in fact 79% of its total area is dedicated to Riesling. But it produces some fine Pinot noir, especially concentrated in Assmannshausen, a bit farther west from Rüdesheim.