West Cape Howe Book Ends 2008
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Parker
Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
As with the Shiraz Viognier, the 2008 Book Ends Cabernet Sauvignon proved a little finer than its 2007 vintage. Very deep garnet-purple in color, it is youthfully mute at this stage with moderately intense aromas of crushed blackberry, blueberry, dark chocolate, pencil shavings and cloves. Crisp with a medium level of very fine tannins, it is both concentrated and elegant in the mouth with plenty of fruit and a very long finish. Give it another year or two in bottle and consider drinking it 2012 to 2020.
Renowned winemaker, Gavin Berry, heads the West Cape Howe team. Highly regarded internationally for making world class wines, he joined the team in mid 2004, following a successful 16 year career as CEO for Plantagenet Wines. Gavin’s hands on approach in winemaking and marketing makes him an integral part of the Company’s ongoing success.
Senior winemaker, Dave Cleary, has already completed six vintages at West Cape Howe. He has grown with the brand since its inception, has overseen the development of the range and has been instrumental in creating West Cape Howe’s unique and successful wine styles.
The Company’s Landsdale Vineyards, based in the Mt Barker sub-region, form the major fruit source for West Cape Howe. Planted in 1989, the vineyards are now some of the oldest in the area. The properties have approximately 80 hectares currently under vine.
While Australia is best known for big, supple and potent Shiraz, it is also a fine source of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cab in fact is Australia’s second most planted red varietal, and it is both bottled on its own and often used in blends. It’s grown in Western Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia. The latter is the home of Block 42 of the Penfolds Kalimna Vineyard, whose vines -- planted in 1886 -- are believed to be the oldest productive Cabernet vines in the world. Two of the most highly regarded sources of Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, though, are Coonawarra on South Australia’s Limestone Coast, and Margaret River in Western Australia, near Perth.
Coonawarra, famous for its rich red soil called terra rossa, has held Cabernet vines since the 1890’s. Though it can get quite warm during the growing season, it’s not far from the cool waters of the Southern Ocean, which tempers the climate and promotes balance in the grapes and resulting wines. These Cabs tend to be complex indeed, showing trademark dark fruit and firm tannins, along with notes of cigar box, cedar and – very often – mint and/or eucalyptus. Some producers to look for are Jim Barry, Yalumba, Berton Vineyards and Penley Estate.
Margaret River, on the other hand, stepped into wine production only in the 1960’s. It is situated on the lower western tip of the country, where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. This coastal location creates an even more temperate, maritime-influenced climate that resembles that of Bordeaux. In good years these Australian Cabs show amazing balance between ripeness, tannins and acidity, along with lovely texture. Producers of note include Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix and Howard Park.