Jermann Afix Riesling 2001
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Silvio Jermann does not look like a revolutionary. More like a shy young college professor. Nothing about him is aggressive or flamboyant, not even his fair good looks. Yet here is the man who changed Italian wine history and created a new era in white vinification.
Heir to a traditional Friulian winery - founded by his Austrian great-grandfather Antonio in 1881 -Silvio graduated from two renowned wine academies, Conegliano and Istituto di San Michele. As early as his senior year, he determined to explore new courses in wine-making, and soon moved to Canada. Silvio's voluntary exile broadened his scope and allowed him a freedom of research which would have been unthinkable at home, where his parents, Angelo and Bruna, favored more conservative views.
Today, Silvio has not only converted his parents; he has won over the wine-making world.
His extraordinary, multi-layered, extract-loaded whites are as many landmarks of contemporary viniculture. Their inspired individual style speaks of a will of steel, and an almost mystical view of wine; of Collio's incredible terroir and Silvio's daring flair; of tiny vineyards he personally monitors, and unique blends of indigenous and international varieties.
At once revolutionary and instant classics, immaculate and complex, these wines express the essence of each varietal character to its purest and fullest degree.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
The source of some of Italy’s best and most distinctive white wines, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is where Italian, Germanic and Slavic cultures converge. The styles of wines produced in this region of Italy's far north-east reflect this merging of cultures. Often shortened to just “Friuli,” the area is divided into many distinct subzones, including Friuli Grave, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Collio Goriziano and Carso. The flat valley of Friuli Grave is responsible for a large proportion of the region’s wine production, particularly the approachable Pinot grigio and the popular Prosecco. The best vineyard locations are often on hillsides, as in Colli Orientali del Friuli or Collio. In general, Friuli boasts an ideal climate for viticulture, with warm sunny days and chilly nights, which allow grapes to ripen slowly and evenly.
In Colli Orientali, the specialty is crisp, flavorful white wine made from indigenous varieities like Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano), Ribolla gialla and Malvasia Istriana.
Red wines, though far less common here, can be quite good, especially when made from the deeply colored, rustic Refosco variety. In Collio Goriziano, which abutts Slovenia, many of the same varieties are planted. International varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc are also common, but they tend to be Loire-like in style with herbaceous character and mellow tannins. Carso’s star grape is the red Teranno, notable for being rich in iron content and historically consumed for health purposes. It has an earthy, meaty profile and is often confused with the distinct variety Refosco.